Editorial: "Minnesota Style in a New York Fashion"

We all know that many of the Twin Cities' brightest head to the bright lights of New York City to make their mark. But we say once a Minnesotan, always a Minnesotan. Minneapolis-via-New York style blog MPLSTYLE.com went out and spotlighted the most stylish of this group of photographers, art directors, stylists, and magazine editors for this editorial, "Minnesota Style in a New York Fashion," and you're sure to recognize some names, like former local fashion designers Ashley Wokasch (Calpurnia Peach), Niki English, and Coco and Breezy, and photographers Benjamin Fredrickson and Brad Ogbonna (regulars in my muses and lenses feature).











Photography by Drew Krason
Interviews by John-Mark

A closer look: Sol Inspirations' designer challenge

When I first wrote my initial review of last Saturday's Sol Inspirations eco-fashion show for Vita.mn, I was missing a handful of images from each of the six competing designers. Now that more images have trickled in, I wanted to take a more in-depth look at each designer's three looks.

Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman, in town from his new home in New York, had the most relevant, stylish collection of the bunch. His stunning orange gown with a high slit at the back thigh was best-in-show and the drape, bold color and asymmetry were all quintessentially Ra'mon, though the African print jacket he paired with it looked a little dated and thrown-on. (Apparently, the jacket was added to satisfy the solar panel requirement.) I didn't notice the beaded shoulder until looking at photos now, and it's quite a lovely, exotic detail.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

His sustainable look is a another perfect example of Ra'mon's signature aesthetic: a classic, figure-flattering silhouette rendered in pretty fabrics, which a lent an edge by giving a slightly disheveled and asymmetrical look to it all.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

For his upcycled look, Ra'mon played with artistic colorblocking. Despite the unusual shapes and gathers, I think it is an unusual, eye-catching design - especially when looking at the textures of the fabric up close:



Niki English's was my initial choice for the winner. She wowed with a trio of looks that pushed the boundaries of what would be considered wearable, and of the designers, most fully lived up to the challenges. Her strongest look was a neon tie-dyed dress with two metallic side panels and a black, shiny yoke, which worked to satisfy the challenge (upcycled fabrics) while exhibiting Niki's signature futuristic, gothy edginess and pushing the boundaries.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

She wasn't quite as successful with her bodiced dress outfitted with a jutting, sculptural, tulle-filled skirt. Though the bodice was gorgeous, my only criticism would be that she perhaps took her designs too far, incorporating too many elements into one piece.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

Once again, for her sustainable fabrics challenge, she perhaps over-designed a bit, meshing tons of multi-colored fabric with L.E.D. lights. The look could have used a waist, and all that folded fabric ended up making the (very thin) model look a bit thick. But of the designer, Niki seemed to push design a bit more and really put on a show, which seems to be the point of a design competition. More is better than less in this case.


Project Runway season six contestant and local darling Christopher Straub won the competition with three edgy, architectural looks. Surprisingly, they were more McQueen than the ruffly, cute looks he's better known for. That's not to say the looks weren't well-designed - I particularly liked his printed denim bustier & leggings (though on the fence the froo froo underskirt) for the upcycled challenge - but they didn't seem very Christopher.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

In fact, his unusual materials look couldn't be more McQueen (spring 2010 specifically) with its insect-like bodice and detailed, graphic print.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

The same went for his sustainable fabrics look, which was edgy yet organic. I do love the fabric selected for the dress, which appears to have a bamboo print. In the end, I shouldn't have been so surprised that Straub won - the three looks are all well-constructed, cohesive and satisfied the challenges. But the looks have been done before, whereas it seemed like at least Niki English was reaching for something more, and Ra'mon showed innovation while staying true to his unique aesthetic.



For her upcycled challenge, formerly-local knitwear designer Allilamodie (now based out of Chicago) showed a chic, oversized knit sweater over skinny leather-looking pants - a strong streetwear look to be sure, but it didn't exactly say "design competition." Based on the strength of her design portfolio on her website, it does seem like the designer is upping her game as of late. She may be one to watch when it comes to chunky, ready-to-wear knits.

[Photo via Art of Wore]

For her unusual materials look, she selected an intriguing "fabric," the metallic material she used appearing scale-like and creating interesting movement as it went down the runway. It wasn't clear what materials were incorporated, and that's one qualm I had with the show - information regarding materials from what each piece was crafted wasn't provided. As for the design of the dress, I don't think it's particularly flattering, and the back had some extremely strange fringe on the shoulders:

[Photo by Jules Christman]

[Photo via Art of Wore]

New-to-Minneapolis designer Tara LaTour's bridal-y dresses were cute and well-constructed but pretty safe. (Apparently, she is best-known for her bridal designs.) And in white and off-white shades, they faded into the background amongst the other more highly-designed pieces other designers sent down the runway.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

The team of Atom Pechman and Jenn Bratvold too seemed outmaneuvered by the competition. I had to review the photos from the show to remember what they showed, and that's never a good sign. In photos, the looks don't appear to fit the model all that well, or just aren't well-constructed to begin with. For this look, the boots stole the show - which isn't a good sign in a design competition. The jacket is sort of a cool idea conceptually, but it strangely cuts the model off in mid-bust. And what is that fabric - crushed velvet?

[Photos by Jules Christman]

Apart from being rendered in awful-looking fabrics, this hooded look is also quite strangely designed. Who wants to wear a vest that is only open to expose the breasts?

[Photo by Jules Christman]

Their upcycled look was sort of pretty (if impractical) with its flowing chiffon half-train and bodice with short-shorts.

[Photo by Jules Christman]

Click here for more photos by Jules Christman.

In review: "Envision: Artopia"

This weekend, MNfashion Week fully kicked off. I review last night's "Envision: Artopia" fashion show for Vita.mn:

[A look from Cliche. Photo by Rhea Pappas for MNfashion]

Check out next weekend's issue of Vita.mn for more MNfashion Week coverage, or MNfashionWeek.com, and more reviews to come.

Sol Inspirations eco-fashion show finalists announced

Designer finalists for the Sol Inspirations Eco-Fashion Gala & Fundraiser have been announced, and there apart from a mix of known and unknown designers, there is one major surprise - Project Runway contestants Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman and Christopher Straub are among the finalists. While Straub has been a regular fixture around the Twin Cities since he was on the show back in Fall 2009, Coleman took a job with Kohl's in Milwaukee following the show and most recently has made the move to New York, showing Spring 2010 and Fall 2010 collections of his namesake line in between. We covered both contestants for an August 2009 cover story after the two were announced as contestants on the reality show. It will be exciting to see the two reunite in their first official capacity since the show ended.

[Christopher Straub & Ra'mon-Lawrence Coleman photographed by Carlos Gonazalaz for Vita.mn, styling by Eclecticoiffeur]

Other designers include Niki English (a recent U of M grad who has been showing on Cliche runways for a few years now); Jenn Bratvold, a recent St. Kate's grad who showed at SCENEaSOTA this past fall; Allison Helliwell of Allilamodie Designs, who appeared at Envision: Artopia last fall; and Atom Pechman and Tara Latour, both unknowns to my eyes. The designers will create three eco-friendly looks using non-traditional fabrics, recycled materials, and sustainable fabrics, and the winner will receive a $5,000 cash prize. The show will be concurrent with a fashion show produced by Ignite Models at The Depot on Saturday, April 23.

Here is a video from Niki English detailing her commitment to eco-design:

U of M "Distortion" Senior Show preview

Student shows get a bad rap for, well, "student work." (You know you've heard Tim Gunn disdainfully utter that phrase more than once on Project Runway.) But student shows often provide a glimpse into the future of the local fashion industry. The University of Minnesota has the biggest apparel design program in the state, and often has some talented designers come out of it (Calpurnia Peach and Tender Cuts' Emily Bryngelson, to name a couple). Here is a glimpse of what's to come in the February 19 show:

Niki English is, by comparison, a longtime player in the local fashion community, having sold her line at Cliché and participating in its runway shows for a few years now, as well as last summer's "Calamity" group show. An adept leatherworker, she also created a handbag line for Voltage 2009 for Maritza Ramirez. She describes her aesthetic as "futuristic, dark, intense, black, textural, aggressive" and says it "plays with power, proportion and structure."

Hilary Hubanks also appears to be an up-and-comer, both aspiring to the fields of fashion design as well as visual art and design. She says her inspiration "comes from her travels to places such as England, Norway, Czech Republic, and Japan."

Elise Diebel works with hand dyed and custom printed fabrics and "classic silhouettes enhanced through the use of bright colors and unique patterns that play with the juxtaposition of geometric and organic shapes."

Kayla Frazier "focuses on creating high quality clothing for the street savvy, ardent, & ultra feminine woman."

Autumn Kirchman's "unique surface fabric designs, imaginative silhouettes, use of non-traditional materials, and small details that add a sense of dramatic personality to each garment."

Carol Lee is "inspired by modern architecture and everyday life experiences."

Amanda Matrejek's designs focus on "simplicity using strong lines, sleek silhouettes and a timeless color palette."

Alix Nettnay's work incorporates layered fine beading and silk ribbon and is inspired by the Arizona sunrise.

Tierra Oliver incorporates hand dying, screen printing and distressing techniques her trendy, wearable garments.

Leslie Randall "utilizes inspirations from past and present to create a balance between retro and modern."

Eco-conscious designer Nick Ruffalo "often draws inspiration from the natural settings around him as well as various ancient cultures," including the "dyeing of textiles using methods of Shibori and Batik."

Shannon Smith focuses on "designing apparel that is active and comfortable but also feminine and versatile."

Jessica St. George "blends the classic silhouettes that women love to wear with a fresh bohemian feel."

The lone menswear line in the show, by Kelly VerDuin, is inspired by "the rustic feel of the Scottish Highlands melded with the modern and forward-thinking young man's wardrobe."

View more designer garments, sketches and inspiration (and ticket information) at fashionshow.design.umn.edu.

[All photos: Erin Johnson]